Grafting Tool. My Impression.

Was examining the failed grafting and fond that even though the grafting did not 'take' there were minimum damage to the rootstock. Unlike the conventional way of using the knife.

Failed Avocado grafting.

The dying part doesn't really spread very far. I only get a few death rootstock.

Death Avocado scion.

The other advantage of using the grafting tool is that the shape is fixed (when cut correctly) and you do not need to reshape for them to fit. This reduce tremendously the time to practice our cutting skill.

As I am removing the failed Avocado grafting and redoing it, am trying to set up some qualifier so that I can use the tool effectively & successfully. Am sure that the grafting tool was designed to help ease out grafting if all the conditions are met.

The foremost conditions are that the join part should be smooth and of uniform diameter. The diameter of the scion & rootstock should be of the same (closest possible). These should create more contact through out the cut length including the shoulder. 

The 3 blades, I guess shall work well for different occasion. The U is good only for a minimum stem diameter of 8mm. Anything smaller, the parallel wing do not have enough body mass to be strong enough to hold the other side (basing on Avocado). The V & Omega has yet to be determined, but I guess it should be thicker, due to the nature of the shape. I would guess 10mm. Maximum is 15 mm, that is the mouth of the tool.

Cutting should be made perpendicular to the stems and at the center. Should the cut misaligned off center, both should be of the same distant. This need a bit of practice as there is no aiming device. Am still trying to look for a way to 'aim' the cut so as it is perpendicular and dead center.

Joining of the scion & rootstock should align correctly on the upper & lower part of the U. Also take note on the shoulder, which can aid increasing cambium contact.

Wrapping
Using the grafting tool, wrapping have to be modify to suit. Wrapping can not be done too high above the join as the torque / pressure / tension of the wrapping tape shall displace the joint alignment.

After fixing the qualifier at minimum 8mm stem diameter, I couldn't find any opportunity to test the grafting tools. Most of my rootstock are still smaller than 8mm. Guess I have to resort back to using the knife for the time being.

Was doing grafting in the field and took the grafting tool along. Field grafting is really challenging. Need to re-work my grafting procedure to keep things simple and tools to a minimal.

Anyway, task of the day is a trial to graft 4 Borneo Avocado trees, maybe about 2 years old, planted by seeds. I would want a top working  (yet) as I'm yet to graduate till that level, so I'm grafting to the branches.

Borneo Avocado grew by seeds.

Grafting on the branches post lots of challenges. 1 of them is the the branches are almost horizontal. I tried to use the grafting tool whenever it qualifies and reverted to my knife cut when it's not. Tried the V blade as it was still attached, couldn't get the scion to stand into place no matter how I turn it. It keep on dropping. I figure that this is a job more suitable for Omega blade.

Grafted, Avocado tree.

The Omega offer more grip, thus holding the scion in place before wrapping.

The Omega gives a good grip, free our hands to wrap.

Done, grafted the Avocado tree.

I did a couple of graft per tree, and hope that at least 1 takes. I guess the successful rate should be quite low. I also tried other grafting method depending on the circumstances.

The last trees was the most challenging, on a steep gradient.

The last tree was challenging, have to graft sitting on the soil and use a leg to anchor at the trunk. Shall check back in about 2 weeks.

Ran out of candidates. Took the grafting to Soursop.

Just for fun, grafting Sousop.

Now the big question, was the tool useful?
To me it is as it lighten the load when doing mass grafting (when all condition are met). It helps in the cutting & shaping.

Note that this tool only help in a certain part of the grafting process only and does not guarantee grafting success. For successful grafting, kindly refer  back to the basic, that is cambium contact.

Jackfruit Side Veneer Graft.

Side Veneer Grafting On Jackfruit.

Decided to try out Side Veneer grafting on the Jackfruit. Most of the rootstock is from the failed previous cleft grafting.

Reasons that I trying out side veneer is that
1) it may be easier to align the cambium layer.
2) we may extend the joint to a longer graft.
3) it may be easier to graft on different diameter.
4) it may be easier, less laborious to cut the rootstock and scion.

Young Jackfruit scion.

First I cut off the top to about 6 to 10 inches. It's easier to work with.
 Then I prepare the scion. Scion of about 6 to 10 inches is used. I am targeting a joint of 4 to 6 inches. I cut starting from the tip and splice it down. Had started to use new growth scion.

Jackfruit rootstock, side veneer grafting.

 Then I do a side cut by first cutting into the lower section of the rootstock like a side wedge. I go back from the top, do a side cut and stop as soon as I feel the that I've cut off the soft part, before the hard section. Splice this down until the lower cut.

Matching the Jackfruit scion to the Jackfruit rootstock.

 The lower tip of the scion is wedge shaped and inserted into the lower cut of the rootstock. I align the scion slightly for cambium contact.

Wrapping the side veneer Jackfruit graft.

 I start of the wrapping and realign along the way. I try to align as best a I can on one side, but sometimes if it is not straight, I shall cross it to the other side. Am reducing the wrapping pressure due to my previous experience and also in view of the young scion.

Finished Jackdfruit graft.

 Finishing off with a plastic bag and tie up to prevent it from blowing off. Keeping these in a shaded area, 90% Shade screen.

Storing my grafted Jackfruit trees.

 Some of the grafted trees.

My grafting position.

Doing grafting under shade. It's much cooler.

Over grown Jackfruit rootstock.

 The over grown roostock.

Add caption

Top deactivated.

 Cutting off the top.

Jackfruit rootstock.

Note the bud.

Cap the grafted Jackfruit with a plastic bag to prevent humidity lost.

 A not so straight scion.

Matching the length.

Matching up.

My view, under the citrus tree, doing side veneer grafting on Jackfruit.

Mid day now. Sun is getting pretty hot and almost directly over head. Time to move into the shade.

This time I did 8 trees on the scion taken from the Honey Jackfruit. The 4 new plants that I have. Hope they can grow more buds after this. Just for the fun of it I did 2 for the soursop :-)

Had done all I could before I go on leave. Shall be back end of the month. This time hope I can achieve my 30%. Stay tune.

Top Clef Grafting Jackfruit

Grafting Jackfruits, Top Cleft, with plenty of pictures.

Out of the few methods that I've tested, I find this method of grafting top cleft easier and it's applicable for Avocado and Jackfruit. This also provide a strong joint when it fused, which should be good for strong wind. As I had been away from the farm, the seedlings are over grown. Anyway, it gives a lager size rootstock, thicker cambium (could be easier to match). Some are really too big and the roots had overgrown the poly bag.

I usually do grafting  during the morning session, when it's not that hot and humidity is higher. I stop about mid day, unless it's a cloudy day, or rainy day.

Selection of scion, I just took the scion from one of the Jackfruit tree in our farm. Had tested the fruit from this tree before and it seems good. Had tried to identify the variety, could be J32 Mantin. I'll practice on this as the Honey Jackfuits had just been planted and not ready to use as scion.

If you are doing lots of grafting, in batch, it's advisable to prune your tree where the scion is sourced 3 to 4 weeks in advance. After pruning, there are more buds growing. Scion selection is very critical. Scion from the previous growth with butts just growing out is best. Too young, it's just dried off. Too old, it's difficult to shape as it's woody and hard. I prefer scion with at least 2 butts. As I'm still new and clumsy, there are chances of me damaging the buds during the grafting procedure. Find a good grip of the scion (without damaging the buds). Find a section which is straight as it's easier to align. The drawings that lots of sites uses, show that it's very straight forward, but in practice, it's difficult to find it that ideal. No worries, it's still do-able. Caution with the knife while shaping, we don't want to cut our fingers. The knife that I use is just a peeling knife. I like to use this as the tip curve forward giving more control (personal preference). Any sharp knife shall do. I can still remember when I just got started, and when things doesn't goes well, I tend to blame it on the equipment. I started buying different types of knifes. End of the day, it's my skill that needs improving. Oh yes, eep the knife sharp and clean.

Advantage of older growth, normally has a thicker cambium. Thicker the cambium, easier to align and have more contact. After cutting off the scion, take note which side of the cambium is thicker. I prefer to use a pruning scissors then a knife for cutting. On the other hand, too old a scion, it's hard and difficult to cut and shape. Again be careful not to damage the butts.

When I got started, I felt very awkward cutting off the rootstock. Hence I tried other grafting methods, then only I found that this method is good for Avocado. Not to worry, you are not killing the plant. It took me quite a while to get over this feeling, made worst by the latex oozing out. Even if not grafting, cutting off the plant actually promote growth. Again I prefer to use a pruning scissor for this. After cutting off the rootstock, quickly note where the thicker cambium is, before the latex start. Problem with Jackfruit is the latex and sometimes it gets very sticky.

Do a clean split, taking consideration of the wedge length of the scion. Do be very careful with the knife. Do a test fitting, you have 4 quadrant to test. find the fit best. Take your time, we are not doing a heart transplant, a couple of minutes would kill the plant. When all the quadrant don't fit well, a little re-shaping helps.

 

I normally target for at least one side to align and have good contact with the cambium. It's rarely that I get 4 sides aligned. I do usually try to match the diameter of the scion to the rootstock ( for smaller rootstock).

Tie it up with grafting tape, firmly. A big roll is RM$12 ~ RM$15. The tape is dual layer (I wonder why), I use it single and keep the other for the next graft.  I prefer to wrap up all cut portion. This is to prevent water lost. Here are some pictures on the wrapping. I start with an over lapping the starting end. Grip the starting end with the right hand, the left hand on the rest of the tape (twisted). This shall give it a good grip. Note that I grip the tape as close to the stem as possible. The nearer it is the lesser length that the tape shall extend and lesser chance that it'll break. I tie it as firm as possible, without breaking the tape. You'll get the feel after a while (lots of broken tape). If the tape got broke off, just start again with a new one.

 I usually do it clockwise (personal preference), again gripping it as close as possible. I use both hands, but the picture shows one as I need to use the other hand to shoot the photos. I tie is as a band, with 50% over lapping.

 Be careful not to damage the buds. You may twist the tape so that it miss the bud.

 I also use a twist to wrap the expose cut of the rootstock.

 Before ending, I twist the tape to make it as a rope as it's easier to do a "d" end when the tape pass under the previous round.

 The length of the tape depends on the diameter of the rootstock and height of the joints. After a while you'll get the hang of the length (cut it slightly longer). If it's short, it's very difficult to do the "d" end.

 How I use my feet and knees to grip the poly bag while working on the wrapping. I wear thick jeans to the farm, only that it'll get soiled, especially after rain, when they are still wet.

It acts as a good clamp.

I cover the grafted plan with a plastic bag (reused), until I see the butt grows. This is to prevent humidity / water lost. It's very hot here. Keep the grafted plant under shade and water it at least once in 2 days.

This show a bud damaged (white dot latex) while grafting. Luckily there are more than one.

This shows a seedling with the roots out growing the poly bag. I did the grafting in-situ as would not want to damage the roots.

Couples more large sized seedlings. Those nearer to the left are mango trees.

My mobile grafting tools box. Glove, pruning scissor, knife, grafting tapes, plastic bags, multicide (insecticide for ants) and my Samsung Galaxy S 3 to provide music.

Trying out other style of grafting. Trying "I" budding on the overgrown rootstock as hard to split. Check on your plants a week later. Those that are not successful, the scion shall dries up and turn black by then. Check in detail as sometimes, the top dries up but the joint is still good and may have a good bud growing. You can then try again on the same plant, that the reason I do the grafting about 6 inches from the soil level. Just cut it lower and do again.

I still have not perfected my grafting skill yet, but am improving every time that I graft. If I can reach an average of 80%, maybe I can qualify as a Master Grafter. On a good day, all the grafting seems to fit perfectly. On a bad day (13th Aug)) toward the evening, every graft seems bad. Guess I was tired and stress out.

 Go ahead, start your grafting. It's fun and a great way to help propagate the plant. Grafted plants fruits earlier and is a clone of the scion. Creating and expanding more Jackfruits earlier, It's a great satisfying feeling when the graft fuse and the bud starts to grow. Enjoy and good luck to us all.

23rd August
Had been doing some research on the internet since I'm at home. It seems that the most suitable grafting for Jackfruit (and Mango) is modified Veneer Grafting. Had tried this before and it didn't worked for me. Upon further research, I found a couple of sites mentioning that the joints should be at least 2 inches long ( one site says 3.5 inches). Maybe I did it too short. May try this out again when I'm back at the farm.