Effect Of Raw Papain On Skin

Papain
Papain is a white colored latex that oozes out of the papaya when scratched, or when the plant is injured. There are many uses of papain, raw or processed. For the food industries, it's used as meat tenderizer. The enzyme helps to break down the tough bands between fibers in muscle tissue, making tough meats fall apart during the cooking process. For medicinal, (oral) it's used to aid digestion digestion problems, diarrhea, hay fever, runny nose, psoriasis. Treating infected wounds such as sores, ulcers, intestinal worms, or scars.

My experience with raw papain is when I have to help out to harvest our papaya. As we are short on labor. As we process our harvest in batch, when comes harvesting day, it's a full day process. Harvesting the papaya and post harvesting processing and grading.

During harvesting I had to pluck the papayas from tree to tree and place them into the wheel barrow. At times when there are more than 3 papayas, I tend to stack them on my arms and belly. This papain kind of  drip and come into contact with my shirt. As more and more papain comes into contact, and soaked into my shirt, it creates something like a patch and soaked into my skin ( raw papain overdosed). This is made worst by heat of the sun and sweat.

These caused irritation and blisters on my skin. I even washed the blister during lunch break on mid day. It was very painful when it comes into contact with water.
At the end of the day, after taking a bath which I had also clean the affected areas carefully (still very painful), I started to apply burn relief cream and moisturizing lotion. I always have some Johnson baby lotion at hand in my room.
The affected area gradually dried and healed. I'm sure that it shall be fully healed in a couple of days.

While washing the papayas, I always feel that the outer layer of my palm (epidermis) gets wash off as well. It kind of remove all the dead cell and make my palm smooth. This is doesn't create blister as it's diluted with water and I always change the water (overflow). Maybe next time I'll soak my feet in it to remove the dead cells :-)

This also start to make me curious on how to make papaya soap. Maybe I can try it out one day.
 How to make your own Papaya & Cucumber soap.


Looks easy enough.

Top Clef Grafting Jackfruit

Grafting Jackfruits, Top Cleft, with plenty of pictures.

Out of the few methods that I've tested, I find this method of grafting top cleft easier and it's applicable for Avocado and Jackfruit. This also provide a strong joint when it fused, which should be good for strong wind. As I had been away from the farm, the seedlings are over grown. Anyway, it gives a lager size rootstock, thicker cambium (could be easier to match). Some are really too big and the roots had overgrown the poly bag.

I usually do grafting  during the morning session, when it's not that hot and humidity is higher. I stop about mid day, unless it's a cloudy day, or rainy day.

Selection of scion, I just took the scion from one of the Jackfruit tree in our farm. Had tested the fruit from this tree before and it seems good. Had tried to identify the variety, could be J32 Mantin. I'll practice on this as the Honey Jackfuits had just been planted and not ready to use as scion.

If you are doing lots of grafting, in batch, it's advisable to prune your tree where the scion is sourced 3 to 4 weeks in advance. After pruning, there are more buds growing. Scion selection is very critical. Scion from the previous growth with butts just growing out is best. Too young, it's just dried off. Too old, it's difficult to shape as it's woody and hard. I prefer scion with at least 2 butts. As I'm still new and clumsy, there are chances of me damaging the buds during the grafting procedure. Find a good grip of the scion (without damaging the buds). Find a section which is straight as it's easier to align. The drawings that lots of sites uses, show that it's very straight forward, but in practice, it's difficult to find it that ideal. No worries, it's still do-able. Caution with the knife while shaping, we don't want to cut our fingers. The knife that I use is just a peeling knife. I like to use this as the tip curve forward giving more control (personal preference). Any sharp knife shall do. I can still remember when I just got started, and when things doesn't goes well, I tend to blame it on the equipment. I started buying different types of knifes. End of the day, it's my skill that needs improving. Oh yes, eep the knife sharp and clean.

Advantage of older growth, normally has a thicker cambium. Thicker the cambium, easier to align and have more contact. After cutting off the scion, take note which side of the cambium is thicker. I prefer to use a pruning scissors then a knife for cutting. On the other hand, too old a scion, it's hard and difficult to cut and shape. Again be careful not to damage the butts.

When I got started, I felt very awkward cutting off the rootstock. Hence I tried other grafting methods, then only I found that this method is good for Avocado. Not to worry, you are not killing the plant. It took me quite a while to get over this feeling, made worst by the latex oozing out. Even if not grafting, cutting off the plant actually promote growth. Again I prefer to use a pruning scissor for this. After cutting off the rootstock, quickly note where the thicker cambium is, before the latex start. Problem with Jackfruit is the latex and sometimes it gets very sticky.

Do a clean split, taking consideration of the wedge length of the scion. Do be very careful with the knife. Do a test fitting, you have 4 quadrant to test. find the fit best. Take your time, we are not doing a heart transplant, a couple of minutes would kill the plant. When all the quadrant don't fit well, a little re-shaping helps.

 

I normally target for at least one side to align and have good contact with the cambium. It's rarely that I get 4 sides aligned. I do usually try to match the diameter of the scion to the rootstock ( for smaller rootstock).

Tie it up with grafting tape, firmly. A big roll is RM$12 ~ RM$15. The tape is dual layer (I wonder why), I use it single and keep the other for the next graft.  I prefer to wrap up all cut portion. This is to prevent water lost. Here are some pictures on the wrapping. I start with an over lapping the starting end. Grip the starting end with the right hand, the left hand on the rest of the tape (twisted). This shall give it a good grip. Note that I grip the tape as close to the stem as possible. The nearer it is the lesser length that the tape shall extend and lesser chance that it'll break. I tie it as firm as possible, without breaking the tape. You'll get the feel after a while (lots of broken tape). If the tape got broke off, just start again with a new one.

 I usually do it clockwise (personal preference), again gripping it as close as possible. I use both hands, but the picture shows one as I need to use the other hand to shoot the photos. I tie is as a band, with 50% over lapping.

 Be careful not to damage the buds. You may twist the tape so that it miss the bud.

 I also use a twist to wrap the expose cut of the rootstock.

 Before ending, I twist the tape to make it as a rope as it's easier to do a "d" end when the tape pass under the previous round.

 The length of the tape depends on the diameter of the rootstock and height of the joints. After a while you'll get the hang of the length (cut it slightly longer). If it's short, it's very difficult to do the "d" end.

 How I use my feet and knees to grip the poly bag while working on the wrapping. I wear thick jeans to the farm, only that it'll get soiled, especially after rain, when they are still wet.

It acts as a good clamp.

I cover the grafted plan with a plastic bag (reused), until I see the butt grows. This is to prevent humidity / water lost. It's very hot here. Keep the grafted plant under shade and water it at least once in 2 days.

This show a bud damaged (white dot latex) while grafting. Luckily there are more than one.

This shows a seedling with the roots out growing the poly bag. I did the grafting in-situ as would not want to damage the roots.

Couples more large sized seedlings. Those nearer to the left are mango trees.

My mobile grafting tools box. Glove, pruning scissor, knife, grafting tapes, plastic bags, multicide (insecticide for ants) and my Samsung Galaxy S 3 to provide music.

Trying out other style of grafting. Trying "I" budding on the overgrown rootstock as hard to split. Check on your plants a week later. Those that are not successful, the scion shall dries up and turn black by then. Check in detail as sometimes, the top dries up but the joint is still good and may have a good bud growing. You can then try again on the same plant, that the reason I do the grafting about 6 inches from the soil level. Just cut it lower and do again.

I still have not perfected my grafting skill yet, but am improving every time that I graft. If I can reach an average of 80%, maybe I can qualify as a Master Grafter. On a good day, all the grafting seems to fit perfectly. On a bad day (13th Aug)) toward the evening, every graft seems bad. Guess I was tired and stress out.

 Go ahead, start your grafting. It's fun and a great way to help propagate the plant. Grafted plants fruits earlier and is a clone of the scion. Creating and expanding more Jackfruits earlier, It's a great satisfying feeling when the graft fuse and the bud starts to grow. Enjoy and good luck to us all.

23rd August
Had been doing some research on the internet since I'm at home. It seems that the most suitable grafting for Jackfruit (and Mango) is modified Veneer Grafting. Had tried this before and it didn't worked for me. Upon further research, I found a couple of sites mentioning that the joints should be at least 2 inches long ( one site says 3.5 inches). Maybe I did it too short. May try this out again when I'm back at the farm.

Repairing Nursery.

The Nursery had broken down and over ran with weeds after I came back to our little farm. Was away for about 3 months. It was erected partially with wood and bamboo. The bamboo had decayed and fell down. Our nursery was built in 3 stages, over a period of time. It started out very small and was extended. The last stage was the largest as we were seeding Gaharu (Agarwood).

Lots of the seedlings had also died due to the drought. With unprotected sun light, the seedlings just couldn't withstand.

Had managed to transfer all the surviving seedlings to ploy bags. With that cleared, I started to dismantle the shade first. Had to do it carefully as I hope to reuse them.

Dismantled and lay it on the ground so that I can roll it for storage. Have to use our field ladder as the height was above my head. Had a couple of falls as the ground was uneven and soft due to the rain. The shade gets easily hooked to nails, wood splints and etc. At times I had to cut out a section to dislodge it. Yet at the same time had to try to keep them in a long piece. If it's too short, then it's difficult to reuse.

 Saw off the horizontal frame and dismantle the nursery to half size.

Strengthen the vertical pole with "ram" earth. Secured the horizontal pole. As the wood tend to crack at the edge, I used wire to tie them up.

 Once I got the poles secured, I instal back the shade. I managed to reuse most of the material and the only 'new' material that I bought was the raffia string. I use the raffia string to secure the shade netting.

After completing the half size nursery, I found that I need to create a shade for the Gaharu / Agarwood seedlings too. So put up another section.

Managed to complete today, and had some time to spare. As I still had the energy, I cleared off a small section and did some cuttings from our lime tree. Trying to propagate more lime plants. The weather forecast indicates high chances of rain for the next 10 days.
I usually check the weather forecast everyday via weather-forecast.com . I find this good as it does give a 10 days forecast. Also there is a weather station very near to our farm.

Shall be busy tomorrow, gathering our produce and sending them down to the city the next day. On 21st Aug, my leave starts and shall be away for the next 9 days. Hopefully when I'm back, I can see the lime cutting propagate.
Only left with clearing off the weeds and our refurbished nursery shall be fully operational.

First Sales Of Our Free Range Kampung Chicken (Malay Village Chicken)

Malay Chicken Breed fowl.
After 15 months, of letting our Village chicken to free range at our rubber plantation, we had exceed our 1st target of 50 chickens. It took us a little longer that expected, but yes, we achieved.

We are now ready for our phase 2, which we hope to achieve a colony of 200 chickens. Our present colony is only about 70 chicken strong, after our 1st sales.

Recalling our initial stage, our mortality rate was very high. Our chicken were dying off due to in-fighting (aggressive breed). This was due to our starting stage where we got our stocks from different source. The cockerels where fighting as they are very intolerant of each other. When the hens started to lay, we found that our coop wasn't suitable. We also had to deal with predators for the eggs. We also lost lots of day old chicks, due to predators and hash condition. Credit goes to our present helper and my partner, whom is putting passion into this project.

We started phase 2 by dismantling an old shed used by our ex-helper in our little farm, whom had left. We shall be re-using / recycling these materials, mostly woods & zinc sheets. Took us 3 trips to transfer all these material to our site.

 These shall help us to built more coop. Some of our existing stock of chicken resting in our 1st coop. We kept them in so that we can select which we want to retain. We shall be selling off some cockerels and some hens.

Our helper prepared and select those that we want to send to the market at night. We have a wire cage which we fabricated ourselves for use to transport. It fits perfectly into our truck. We took the opportunity of sending our chicken to our local village (very small village) just before the Hari Raya Festive season. We sold retail as our chicken isn't many, managed to sell 17 our our chicken. Those unsold were sent back to our farm. These are the smaller ones. Shall raise they longer. We had also people coming to our farm and had just sold a cockerel. We are also looking into value added.

Off they go, after we are done with our selection. Most of our chickens are good mothers. Teaching survival skill to their chicks. Since our colony had gotten used to each other, they work in groups, warning each other when they sense danger and calling their chicks when there is food. I really love to watch the mother hen taking their chicks out.

Since our chickens is free ranging, we only supplement them some food such as corn, chicken feeds and fruits.

Lunch time, when everyone joins in. We had plants in our farm, such as papaya, banana, chilli padi, tapioca which give them a good variety of food source. We also bring in fruits form our little farm for them. These guys are heavy eaters.

Some of our teen cockerels.

 They are rather fierce looking.

Let's hope that our second target of 200 chickens can be reach after another 15 months, that shall be November 2014.

Identifying Variety Of Jackfruit Trees (Artocarpus heterophyllus).

Had been trying to identify the variety of the Jackfruit tree in our Little farm. Found this chart from our Agriculture Department. It's the Popular Jackfruit varieties in Malaysia.

This is of the the tree. I had it pruned (half way) a few weeks ago. Couldn't manage to do topping as I couldn't climb up and was exhausted trying. Shall most probably complete the pruning before I go on leave.

Tree number 1.

This tree fits the description of J 32 (Mantin). Hope I got it right.
Elliptically shaped, dark green leafs, and edges slightly wavy.  
Tip of leaves are long.
As for the fruit, I've couldn't remember.
Oblong-shaped and skin color is yellowish green.
Dented shoulder.
Flesh color is orange yellow, thick, solid, less sweet and grainy, moderately coarse. 
Commented as compressed, with little straw.

Tree number 2, by the creek.

This could be J29. I see there are 2 types of leafs on this tree, roundish and elliptic.
Elliptic, dark green leaves, hairy on under the surface and edges slightly choppy. Leafs is similar to J31 but have a longer stalk.
Fruit shaped globular and skin green. (I see the fruit as yellowish green)
Dent shoulder. Flesh color orange yellow, thick, large, firm, sweet fine and grainy. Commented as compressed with little straw.


Had just purchased 4 plants of Nanka Madu (Honey Jackfruit) from a local nursery, Yeoh's Nursery. Pretty nice chap. Had these planted about a month ago, hope to abstract scion from those 4 plants later. 3 of them are doing well, 1 had almost all the leafs dropped, but new butts are growing.

New plant number 1.

New plant number 2.

New plant number 3.

Plant number 4, the not too well plant, had all the leaves dropped, except 3 leaves left. I do see new butts growing.

New plant number 4.

All the 4 new plants has the 'trade mark' of dome shape tip. So this is definitely Honey Jackfruit / Nangka Madu/ Tekam Yellow/ J33.
 Elliptic, dark green and edges slightly choppy. Some leaves have the dome like on tip end of the leafs.
Fruit is oblong-shaped and is green yellowish. Shoulder dented. Flesh is yellow, thin, soft, very
sweet and crunchy. Commented as compressed.
Let's let them grow for a while.