Showing posts with label Malaysia Gardener. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malaysia Gardener. Show all posts

Friday, November 17, 2017

Golf Course Turf Grass, Shifting Goal Post

Golf Course Turf Grass Part 2

Our initial trail.

The amended soil.
The amended soil.
Just came back from my vacation in Vietnam and now back to work. We are shifting our goal post. Our initial Goal is to find out if AgroSol works for Turf and after a couple of weeks, we are finalizing an order of AgroSol for a bigger trial. We are just waiting for the official documentations.

In the mean time, am shifting from "if it works" to optimization. From the initial concentration, 1:200, 1:400 & 1:600, I find that 1:600 works better. This is definitely a run off from our normal perception that "more is always better"

My last spraying about 14 days ago, was done while drizzling. So I guess this is a good time to change the concentration.



Let this run for 28 days and check back on the results. Stay tuned.




#Agrosol #Organic #Natural #BeeFriendly #PurePlantEnergy
Tested in Malaysia for #AvocadoFriendly #GrapeFriendly #DurianFriendly#MangoFriendly #RockmelonFriendly #PapayaFriendly #TurfFriendly #FigFriendly#BlueButterFlyPeaFriendly #BananaFriendly #ChilliFriendly

Sunday, July 23, 2017

Mycorrhiza


Commercial Potent Grade Mycorrhiza
Waste from roots is food for mycorrhiza fungi, waste from mycorrhiza fungi is food for roots.


What Are Mycorrhiza?

“Myco” – “rhiza” literally means “fungus” – “root” and describes the mutually beneficial relationship between the plant and root fungus. These specialized fungi colonize plant roots and extend far into the soil. Mycorrhiza fungal filaments in the soil are truly extensions of root systems and are more effective in nutrient and water absorption than the roots themselves. More than 90 percent of plant species in natural areas form a symbiotic relationship with the beneficial mycorrhiza fungi.

Are They Important?

Mycorrhiza fungi increase the surface absorbing area of roots 100 to a 1,000 times, thereby greatly improving the ability of the plant to access soil resources. Several miles of fungal filaments can be present in less than a thimbleful of soil. Mycorrhiza fungi increase nutrient uptake not only by increasing the surface absorbing area of the roots, but also release powerful enzymes into the soil that dissolve hard-to-capture nutrients, such as organic nitrogen, phosphorus, iron and other “tightly bound” soil nutrients. This extraction process is particularly important in plant nutrition and explains why non-mycorrhiza plants require high levels of fertilization to maintain their health. Mycorrhiza fungi form an intricate web that captures and assimilates nutrients, conserving the nutrient capital in soils.
Do You Need Them?

Undisturbed soils are full of beneficial soil organisms including mycorrhiza fungi. Research indicates, however, many common practices can degrade the mycorrhizae-forming potential of soil. Tillage, removal of topsoil, erosion, site preparation, compaction, fumigation, invasion of weeds, and leaving soils fallow are some of the activities that can reduce or eliminate these beneficial soil fungi. Scientific studies indicate endo mycorrhiza fungal populations are slow to recolonize, unless there is close access to natural areas that can act as a source of mycorrhiza spores to repopulate the affected area. Reintroducing mycorrhiza fungi in areas where they have been lost can dramatically improve plant performance with less water and fertilizer and at a reduced cost.

Benefits of Mycopwer 
On Plants

Produce more vigorous & healthy plants
Create better water & nutrient development
Increase plant root establishment & development
Increase Yield & Crop quality
Increase plant survival rate at seedling & transplanting
Optimizing fertilization use
Increase plant tolerance to soil salinity, disease & drought
   

On Soil Structure

Greater water infiltration & holding capacity
Prevent soil aggregation through hyphae networking
Better resistance to soil surface crusting, erosion & soil compaction
Increase permeability to air circulation, 
Increase beneficial microbial activity & nutrients cycling
Efficacy gain typically allows a reduction of 30% to 50% of conventional fertilizer input
Additional of AMF in ecological restoration project (Phytoremediation) has shown improvement on the physical & biological soil properties, structure, nutrients availability & organic matter.

Healthy & Bigger root mass = Higher Yield & Better Quality.


Saturday, April 15, 2017

Agrosol

Photosynthesis.
Let us look into part of Photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is a process used by plants and other organisms to convert light energy into chemical energy that can later be released to fuel the organisms' activities (energy transformation). This chemical energy is stored in carbohydrate molecules, such as sugars, which are synthesized from carbon dioxide and water – hence the name photosynthesis.

Carbon dioxide is converted into sugars in a process called carbon fixation. Photosynthesis provides the energy in the form of free electrons that are used to split carbon from carbon dioxide that is then used to fix that carbon once again as carbohydrate. Carbon fixation is an endothermic redox reaction, so photosynthesis supplies the energy that drives both process. In general outline, photosynthesis is the opposite of cellular respiration, in which glucose and other compounds are oxidized to produce carbon dioxide and water, and to release chemical energy (an exothermic reaction) to drive the organism's metabolism. The two processes, reduction of carbon dioxide to carbohydrate and then later oxidation of the carbohydrate, are distinct: photosynthesis and cellular respiration take place through a different sequence of chemical reactions and in different cellular compartments.

Carbon dioxide levels and photorespiration
As carbon dioxide concentrations rise, the rate at which sugars are made by the light-independent reactions increases until limited by other factors. RuBisCO, the enzyme that captures carbon dioxide in the light-independent reactions, has a binding affinity for both carbon dioxide and oxygen. When the concentration of carbon dioxide is high, RuBisCO will fix carbon dioxide. However, if the carbon dioxide concentration is low, RuBisCO will bind oxygen instead of carbon dioxide. This process, called photorespiration, uses energy, but does not produce sugars.

Now what if we can create an environment whereby the carbon dioxide concentration is at consistenly maximum level? How would your plant react?

On december 21st 2007, company AGROsolution launched into one of the most important future markets.
Agriculture and Food!

It is 100% growth energy derived from natural minerals and without any chemical additives!

AGROSOL was developed to enable and promote healthy plant growth.

Plants are supplied from the outside with foil and soil fertilizers, providing for missing nutrients. As water becomes scarce and groundwater tables recede, supplying the plants with sufficient amounts of water is becoming increasingly difficult. As a consequence, artificial irrigation needs to be applied. 

These two factors (supply of nutrients and water from alternative sources) have been common knowledge for quite some time. However, what is still largely unknown (especially in open land cultivation) is CO2 fertilization.
Agrosol at Agronet Farms, Video 
Plants need a certain CO2 balance to achieve ideal growth. The optimum level for photosynthesis is a CO2 content between 0.1 and 1.0 percent by volume. Air has a CO2 content of only 0.03 % by volume. Therefore, plants are operating way below their full potential. 

The plant is literally „struggling for air“. This is where AGROSOL comes into play. 
AGROSOL is mixed with water and is applied onto the leaves surface via a fine spray mist. Since the discharge of CO2 takes place inside the leaf, this CO2 production does not generate a burden for the environment.

In fact, quite the opposite is true: the plant converts the CO2 into glucose and proteins, discharges higher amounts of oxygen, and thus contributes toward the „green lung“ effect. Once AGROSOL has been sprayed as a fine mist onto the leaf surface, it enters the plant via the stomata. The minerals discharge CO2 inside the plant. This boosts the production of glucose and proteins and in turn, increases the amount of oxygen discharged into the environment.
AGROSOL is mixed with water and sprayed onto the leaf surface in the form of a fine mist.


AGROSOL can be mixed with all commercially available fertilizers and plant protection materials.
Agrosol has distribution world wide. Their Asian Network manages 22 Countries, including Malaysia.
World class product! How can we acquire it? Well, MNC, world class products, this is only made available to the big boys, big corporate plantation in very high potent commercial scale volume and packing.

As I am back to being an entrepreneur, me and my friend is thinking, what about the Gardeners? Hobbyist? Enthusiast? Small & Mid size farmer? Wouldn't this product we great for us? We are organizing to make this available to this group of users. Do us a favor. Leave a comment so that we can gauge the response and anticipate the quantity of this first batch and method of delivery. This express of interest is strictly under no obligation.

Why are we doing this? The more users, the more oxygen! 

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Grafting Tool. My Impression.

Was examining the failed grafting and fond that even though the grafting did not 'take' there were minimum damage to the rootstock. Unlike the conventional way of using the knife.
Failed Avocado grafting.
The dying part doesn't really spread very far. I only get a few death rootstock.
Death Avocado scion.
The other advantage of using the grafting tool is that the shape is fixed (when cut correctly) and you do not need to reshape for them to fit. This reduce tremendously the time to practice our cutting skill.

As I am removing the failed Avocado grafting and redoing it, am trying to set up some qualifier so that I can use the tool effectively & successfully. Am sure that the grafting tool was designed to help ease out grafting if all the conditions are met.

The foremost conditions are that the join part should be smooth and of uniform diameter. The diameter of the scion & rootstock should be of the same (closest possible). These should create more contact through out the cut length including the shoulder. 

The 3 blades, I guess shall work well for different occasion. The U is good only for a minimum stem diameter of 8mm. Anything smaller, the parallel wing do not have enough body mass to be strong enough to hold the other side (basing on Avocado). The V & Omega has yet to be determined, but I guess it should be thicker, due to the nature of the shape. I would guess 10mm. Maximum is 15 mm, that is the mouth of the tool.

Cutting should be made perpendicular to the stems and at the center. Should the cut misaligned off center, both should be of the same distant. This need a bit of practice as there is no aiming device. Am still trying to look for a way to 'aim' the cut so as it is perpendicular and dead center.

Joining of the scion & rootstock should align correctly on the upper & lower part of the U. Also take note on the shoulder, which can aid increasing cambium contact.

Wrapping
Using the grafting tool, wrapping have to be modify to suit. Wrapping can not be done too high above the join as the torque / pressure / tension of the wrapping tape shall displace the joint alignment.

After fixing the qualifier at minimum 8mm stem diameter, I couldn't find any opportunity to test the grafting tools. Most of my rootstock are still smaller than 8mm. Guess I have to resort back to using the knife for the time being.

Was doing grafting in the field and took the grafting tool along. Field grafting is really challenging. Need to re-work my grafting procedure to keep things simple and tools to a minimal.

Anyway, task of the day is a trial to graft 4 Borneo Avocado trees, maybe about 2 years old, planted by seeds. I would want a top working  (yet) as I'm yet to graduate till that level, so I'm grafting to the branches.
Borneo Avocado grew by seeds.
Grafting on the branches post lots of challenges. 1 of them is the the branches are almost horizontal. I tried to use the grafting tool whenever it qualifies and reverted to my knife cut when it's not. Tried the V blade as it was still attached, couldn't get the scion to stand into place no matter how I turn it. It keep on dropping. I figure that this is a job more suitable for Omega blade.
Grafted, Avocado tree.
The Omega offer more grip, thus holding the scion in place before wrapping.
The Omega gives a good grip, free our hands to wrap.
Done, grafted the Avocado tree.
I did a couple of graft per tree, and hope that at least 1 takes. I guess the successful rate should be quite low. I also tried other grafting method depending on the circumstances.
The last trees was the most challenging, on a steep gradient.
The last tree was challenging, have to graft sitting on the soil and use a leg to anchor at the trunk. Shall check back in about 2 weeks.

Ran out of candidates. Took the grafting to Soursop.
Just for fun, grafting Sousop.


Now the big question, was the tool useful?
To me it is as it lighten the load when doing mass grafting (when all condition are met). It helps in the cutting & shaping.

Note that this tool only help in a certain part of the grafting process only and does not guarantee grafting success. For successful grafting, kindly refer  back to the basic, that is cambium contact.




Friday, August 15, 2014

Marcotting / Air Layering Breadfruit Tree.

Had been reviewing my procedure for preparing our planting material for the past few months. Looking for method to produce quality planting material in quantity with a limited budget for our own planting in the shortest incubation time.
The Breadfruit tree next to the wooden column.

My first trial on Air layering was about 3 years back, was a tourist farmer at that time with practically zero knowledge. Did quite a numbers of trial on Breadfruit & Avocado trees, all failed. It kind of left an impression with me that it's difficult & don't work.
I didn't took notice that it had rooted until my helper informed me.

Since I am having difficulty in propagating Breadfruit and Pomegranate, it kind of make me access  Marcotting / Air Layering again. Decided to try on Breadfruit first, it being seedless. Since I had finished my task early before I go on leave on July, decided to have some fun and tried on a total of 4 Breadfruit trees.
Breadfruit tree rooted.

Breadfruit No. 1 potted.
Out of the 4, 1 failed.
Failed marcotting. I had it re-do on a lower level.
Since the top still looks good, decided to pot it anyway and hope it'll grow.

I tried some with the coco peat disk. It comes dried so have to soak it in water for a couple of hours for it to get re-hydrated. It is more convenient and light weight.
Using Coco peat disk.
This disk are only in small size, I wish they have a bigger ones. As it is, it's only suitable for small size stems.
Another air layering using the disk.
Harvested successful Air Layered Breadfruit tree.

Lovely roots.
Hope it'll grow into a productive Breadfruit tree.
Made more air layering on Breadfruit trees.
Air layered Breadfruit tree, in the making.

Air layered Breadfruit tree in both trunks, in the making.

Air layered Breadfruit tree, in the making.
Need to wait for re-growth.
There is a Breadfruit tree, after harvesting, liquid is flowing out from the cut. Had it sealed, but there are still stain. Shall be incubating this and wait for re-growth before attempting further air layering.


Did 3 trial on the Pomegranate. I only realized that there are some sort of thorns on the pomegranate while doing this. On the matured stems, removing the bark is difficult. I then tried on a green stem, which is very easy to remove. Made a date stamp on all the marcotting and check back in about 3 weeks.

Other plants that I would like to try this on include Jackfruit (since it's a close relative of Breadfruit) Fig,  Lime, Wax Apple, Mango and even Avocado.

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Grafting Tools, First Trial.

Did a trial run on the grafting tool on on Rubber trees, Jackfruit Tree and Avocado last month. Checked on the grafting when I came back to the nursery. None of the Rubber trees & Jackfruit trees took. Only a small numbers of Avocado took.

Look like the Grafting tool is not an easy to use tool. I have to learn how to use it effectively & successfully. As it's my first time, I am playing around with it. I started off with the U blade as it came attached with the tool. Cutting a U on the scion is not as easy as it seems. There is no aiming and I usually missed the center while cutting the rootstock. Cutting the scion is much easier. While playing with it I realized that the pruning part may post a danger and may injure our fingers. Kindly take necessary precaution. Thank goodness I was not cut. Personally I would prefer the pruning part to be on another tool.
Grafting Avocado with a U blade grafting tool.
Avocado grafting, U join.




Rear view of the grafting tool.
Can I use the hole at the bottom to aim? When cutting on the rootstock, it could be an issue. I then turned it around and tried U "saddle". Inverted U on the rootstock.
Avocado, saddle U cut.

Avocado grafting Saddle U cut.
I then switch the blade to the Omega style. Blade switching, click here.
Omega Cut, saddle.

Omega cut, grafting of rubber tree.
Yes, for Omega, we can use it straight or saddle. For the Omega style, we have to slide in the scion from the side. If we were to push it in, it shall damage the 'O' part.
One side matching.

Not matching side.

Scion and rootstock of different size, we can only match i side.

While turning the bobbin  I was surprised to see that the mark of the U and Omega side by side.

Note the cut marks of U & Omega cut.
 I only realized that they are of different 'depth'. I took the  V blade to compare and it's at the same length of the U. I wonder why.

Finally, I decided to try the V blade. This is the style that I had the most reservation. I feel that it is difficult to wrap as the sides shall slip out when the sides are compressed.
V blade attached on the grafting tool.
Did a couple of Avocado graft. Again The V can be used straight or saddle.
Avocado V shape grafting.
I just did a couple of straight V. Shall try the saddle when I have the opportunity. Stay tune for my impression of the grafting tool, coming soon.